Sagrada Familia, Poco a Poco

Every time you start a sentence you don’t know how to finish, strangers in the shops, elevators and streets will come to your rescue.

Barrio of Eixample, Barcelona – And when they realize you’re here to study Spanish, they’ll encourage you with the phrase “poco a poco” which means relax, give yourself some time.

That concept has been pushed beyond its limits by the still unfinished basilica that looms over the rooftops of Eixample. It faces me across the table at dinner every evening. When finally completed it’ll be the tallest place of worship on earth.

Ground breaking for the Sagrada Family began almost a century and a half ago. Its principal architect Antoni Gaudí died in a tragic accident.

Since then a cluster fuck of architects, committees and people with more euros than design sense have been involved. Four long decades of ‘Spanish Fascist Architecture’ didn’t help.

There’s a prank the residents here like to play on their visitors.

They’ll ask what you think of Gaudí’s “brilliant, world-class” landmark in progress, knowing that the travelers code of courtesy requires you to wax eloquent about its beauty.

Then they announce they agree with George Orwell that the edifice is “one of the most hideous buildings in the world.”

It’s a treat when strangers stop to pass the time of day. Even during your first weeks of classes when you’re still sounding your ‘h’s and you can’t conjugate your way out of the infinitive, they’ll tell you your Spanish is very good.

Such generous liars, these people of Barcelona.