Mexico City

It’s no wonder the Colombian family found itself hunkered down on the curb of Avenida Centenario.

After all Spanish speakers like the Ortizes don’t describe things as happening “sooner or later.” They say exactly the opposite, that things happen “later or sooner.”

The Ortizes seemed content enough waiting an extra thirty or more minutes to climb back onto the hop-on, hop-off bus tour that promised to circulate every twenty minutes.

It was not just the distortion of time they experienced that day, the locations of “must-see” attractions were elastic as well.

The Museo de Frida Kahlo, for example, magically occupied two different locations on the tour map at the same time. Even the museum’s ticket taker was baffled. “Looks like a long walk from here” he explained, as he turned away the Ortizes who hadn’t reserved tickets in advance.

The Colombians walked back to the bus stop alongside a disappointed older couple from the U.S. who had made the same mistake.

The younger Ortiz, Elioct, seizing the opportunity to speak English, introduced each member of his family by name. The American, determined to use the language he studied, responded in his fingernails-on-the-chalkboard Spanish and as if by magic, a third language was created on fly.

They all hopped back onto the double decker, dodging decapitation by flowering Jacarandas and power cables. Back at the
Cibeles Fountain they exchanged URLs and email addresses.

Phenomena that happen routinely here in Coyoacán and neighboring barrios border on magic.

Guardian angels appear out of nowhere when visitors like the Ortizes are lost or locked out. Locals stop to help tourists like the Americans place phone calls when Verizon fucks them over.

And miracle of all miracles, serviceable WIFI is provided free to anyone strolling the streets and plazas of North America’s largest city.